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Kamet
Kamet has been considered as the second highest mountain in the region of Garhwal in India while Nanda Devi being the first one. It falls in the district of Chamoli in Uttarakhand in the close proximity of Tibet. It has been the 29th highest peak in the world and has a gigantic pyramid like appearance having a flat summit area atop the two peaks.
Facts and features
Because of its position close to the Tibetan Plateau, Kamet has been a remote area and not much accessible like the Himalayan peaks. There are great winds received by the region from the Plateau. As per the modern standards, it has been a quite straightforward ascent for reaching this high mountain. There were explorations done by people earlier facing the region and marching about 200 miles from Ranikhet through the dense mountain forests which had been easily accessible.
Several attempts for climbing Kamet had started in 1855 and the premier ascent had been done in 1931 by Eric Shipton, Frank Smythe, Lewa Sherpa as well as R.L. Holdsworth who had been a part of British expedition. Kamet remained to be the premier summit over 25,000 ft to be climbed while it was considered as the highest summit until the discovery of Nanda Devi after five years. The much higher non-summit altitudes were accessed in 1920s on the northern side of Mount Everest.
The standard route began from East Kamet called as Purbi Kamet Glacier which ascends through Meade's Col and the saddle between Kamet as well as its north outlier Abi Gamin. From the Meade's Col, the route has been ascending from the north-eastern edge facing the north. The ascent for Meade's Col comprises of steep gullies, various climbs of glacier and a rock wall. There are over 5 camps being placed on the route. The final ascent for the summit has been involving steep snow which are usually enwrapped with ice.
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