Jammu & Kashmir Alchi Choskor Monastery
Alchi Choskor Monastery is considered to be one of the oldest Buddhist monasteries of the north Indian region, but has a stark contrast to the other Buddhist shrines in the country, in terms of architecture as well as prayers. It is considered to be a Buddhist temple by many, rather being a full fledged monastery. Mural paintings and carvings are dissimilar to any other in the vicinity. Alchi Choksor Monastery is situated by the rivers Indus and Zanksar and is about 70 kms away from Leh, along the Leh – Srinagar highway. Many consider the monastery complex as one of the oldest in the region, probably dating back to more than 1000 years, but now there are no monks living here and studying. It is more of a visiting place by sacred Buddhist scholars and visitors. One more differing feature of this monastery is that it is constructed on flat grounds, with backdrops of high-rise mountains of the Himalayan ranges, which is not common with other monasteries in the Leh region. From the outside, the monastery will not appear to be existent in such glorious ways, as dilapidated buildings and houses surround the complex and sometimes it might also appear as non-existent. It has always been found to be very realistic, yet thought provoking as to the primary reason for the building of such a monastic complex.
History
It has not yet been clearly confirmed as to the historical dates for the erection of the monastery complex, because there are a number of buildings included in the complex. Most common belief is that the famous translator Rinchen Zangpo arrived here in 10th century and created a few monasteries. With his efforts, lots of other monasteries came up in the Himachal Pradesh, Sikkim and neighbouring areas and about 108 monasteries are credited to him. These monasteries are said to belong to the Vajrayana sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Under his influence, lots of artistic contributions were done by the Kashmiri artists. In the later years, worship and studies in the Alchi Choksor Monastery ceased and it went into administrative control of other neighbouring monasteries, most recently till the 15th century, when Likir Monastery has been looking after its maintenance since those days.
Architecture
Monastery of Alchi Choksor is more of a monastic complex, rather than a single building. Basically, four village hamlets are included under this group of settlements, where the comprising monuments date back to different periods. Alchi Monastery is perhaps the oldest of these monuments. These villages are part of the Zanskar district and the houses are of different patterns and designs, conforming to the traditions of hindu and Buddhist beliefs of those times. The main complex of the monastery has three important structures, namely the Dukhang, which is also known as the Assembly Hall, Temple of Manjushri and Sumsteg. There are two other structures of importance, inside the monastery complex, known as Lhakang Soma and the Lotsabha Lhakang or Translator’s temple. Wall paintings are perhaps the primary features of all the structures in the Alchi Choksor Monastery of Leh. These are probably having Buddhist as well as Hinduism origin, giving indications that the spread of Buddhism into this region was through Hindu Kings when they ruled the Kashmir region. Lavish wood carvings and baroque style art work are perhaps quite prominent.
Assembly hall or Dukhang is the most important part of the temple complex. The hall is quite big and is main centre for various festivals and ceremonies. Wooden door frames are still found in these walls. Although the structure was probably erected in the 10th century era, more additions were done in the 12th and 13th centuries. There is a verandah which leads to the hall and the passageway has about 1000 buddha images. Dedicated to the holy Panch Tathagatas, the walls are completely painted in form of 6 different mandals, around the main deity of the assembly hall.
Sumsteg inside the Alchi complex is not clearly understood, although it is having a large structure. It means a building which is 3 storied and its structuring has been done in natural stone and loam in the style of Tibetan buildings. Work in wood columns and different structures have been many with carvings and paintings done exquisitely on these wooden structures. The ground floor is the sancturm, probably built in the 13th century and is still well preserved with all the niches and the paintings of the bodhistavas and gods and goddesses. Second storey is likened to a balcony, where the images of Avalokiteshwara are quite prominent. The clothes worn by the deities are elaborate paintings in themselves. Lots of other inscriptions and paintings are found on the walls of the sumsteg, making it a vibrant complex for visitors.
Manjushri temple is another important structure in the Alchi Choskor Monastery. This is considered to have been built around 1225 AD, which is also known as the Jampe Lhakhang. Four central images of Manjushri are the important structures. There are pillars supporting the images and even surrounding them. there is a more recent Lotsabha structure behind the deities. The colour combinations for the idols and the temple are quite unique.
Chorterns are an important part of the building of the monastery complex. These have been present since the time of the building of the monastery while a lot of them have been added in the later days.
Reaching There
Alchi Choksor Monastery is about 70 kms from city of Leh, which takes about 3 hours journey, west of the city, by road. Along the way, the visual sceneries are quite exotic with grasslands, fields, hilly terrains, long distant snow covered mountains and the lavishly flowing Indus and Zanskar rivers. While coming towards the monastery, tourists will pass through small village settlements, which are highly influenced by the monastic presence as well as by the Buddhist culture. Likir Monastery is near this monastery and possible to be visited by tourists during their return journey.
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